The luxurious recipe sometimes requires an AOP Poulet de Bresse, a super-high-quality hen raised within the Alpine area of the identical identify. Whereas some American farmers are elevating the breed stateside, the unique French specimens are not often out there in the US, so within the absence of the “actual deal,” use the nicest free-range hen you will discover. Frenching the drumsticks, whereas pointless, ends in a prettier presentation and the tenderest leg meat. To the sauce, add as many morels as you may afford. When in season, contemporary morels are simply substituted for dry—simply exchange the soaking liquid within the recipe with an equal quantity of hen inventory.